Day Twenty-five, a Serbian paradise

We set off on a gloomy morning, with weary eyes...

 the danube begins to narrow as we approach the Carpathian mountains, Danube gorge and the iron gates.

mid morning pit-stop.

  

fisherman line the banks as we approach the Golubac castle. The castle was used to control anyone passing through the gorge.

 an unused and derelict building built into the cliff, possibly an old mine entrance.

 long dark tunnels bore through the cliffs as we climb the gorge pass.

quick fix on Flora's pannier rack. cable ties!

 one of the many horrible climbs that we have been forced to get used too.

on the way into the town in which we planned to stay the night, we find ourselves unable to ignore the signs pointing up the mountain to 'a paradise for relaxation'. we set about another hideous 1.6km off-route climb, hoping the destination fulfils its promises....

It does!

a warm reception awaited us - with a plateful of fantastic food, (including battered and curried stinging nettles), cold beers and a violin player.

reluctant friends.

A relaxing evening in 'paradise' just what we needed.

day twenty-four, film stars

After a couple of hours waiting for the morning rain to cease we set off for a long day riding through Serbia, we took plenty of photos...

the first town of the day

a Serbian chap nipping to the shops.

 

Upon our approach to a small village, there was a police man guarding the road. We were told the area was cordoned off for a film, that we could not pass and should take the 15km motorway detour. We didn't fancy that. We promised we'd be no trouble and we were eventually let through. 

If anyone sees a Serbian war/ romance film with 3 cyclists blasting past in the background, let us know!

see ya later tractor!

easing it up a hill. really easy.

 towards the end of the day after some long climbs, we passed a mine resembling a scene from the matrix, the evening light meant plenty of photo opportunities...

 One of many castles along the Danube, this one was at a place called Ram.

 still climbing...!

Big landmark as we ride into the sunset.

We eventually found a cheap and decent Hotel to rest our heads.

Day Twenty-Three, Belgrade

 The old bridge into the city of Novi Sad.

 Horrible 4 km climb out of the city, we were rewarded with free apples from 'George Washington' at the top, proudly selling his home grown produce.

 Lumpy route and Belgrade comes into view....

 Nice smooth roads...

Entering the capital. Prepare to dodge trams, buses and cars.

Day Twenty-Two, Novi Sad

Last morning of a great little ride through northern Croatia, brilliant people. Hills are promised through Serbia and we don't know what to expect in general. Legs and body back to aching 24/7 since Budapest rest, hands and wrists feel broken.

The bikes are feeling the rough roads since Germany and Austria too. Que running cable tie repairs... As promised climbs make the approach to Serbia a slow one.

Passports stamped, the serious but friendly border patrol man laughs and kindly re-adjusts our niave target of reaching Belgrade that day to a more reasonable one of getting to Novi Sad, the country's second city. 'But we did 140km yesterday', we say defiantly... stone faced he looks up, '...it was flat'.

  Inappropriately high up for a fixed gear tour with heavy panniers. Sorry legs... Pharmacy sign say 40 degrees C.

On the approach to the city we can see below us we are passed by this chap on his road bike. Competitiveness led to chasing back onto his wheel and waiting to see how he responded. It turns out he's a bit of pro mountain biker on a training ride that he's at the end of, and would love to give us a guided two wheel tour of Novi Sad, his home town. Great city, great food, staying here tonight. 

 Our guide, who's name meant 'Surprise' filled us in on a lot of Serbian and Yugoslavian history and culture, and helped us plan our route for the next few days as we head through the Danube gorge. He's into the outdoors and Serbia sounded pretty undiscovered for skiing, hiking, rafting and cycling... Novi Sad's huge castle, most of it underground is home to the Exit festival, and remnants of the cities destroyed bridges are seen protruding from the river. Relics of a scarily recent conflict, NATO bombed all of the bridges in the city when Surprise was at school in 1999.

The bishops house... 

Happy Birthday Grace!!!!

day twenty-one, 23

After another cramped and sweaty nights sleep, Harvey awakes to find  Luke has left him a present to mark the 23rd birthday - a used wet wipe. lovely. Now to get on with the day...

The Balic family prepare a special birthday corn porridge. the breakfast of men!

The Balic's

Croatia and Serbia beyond.

dirt track and cyclist photo. one of many dirt track and cyclist photos mainly showing us on our bikes, and a track.

birthday landmines.

on passing through Osijek the signs of War become more startling -New buildings next to those that have been ravaged by bullets.

After a long and hard142km we arrive in Ilok, the Croatian prime minister has just visited to mark the town festival. A nice gesture for them to coincide their festival and fireworks for the arrival of Harvey on his birthday. A stay in a cheap hotel ensures a good nights rest.